Join List
Buy Wine

Great article from our friend Elaine Brown on the Jancis Robinson website, here is a little snippet:

 

‘Green Valley is the most prolific [of the West Sonoma Coast subzones] in styles, wine types, and producers’, Paul Sloan, viticulturist and winemaker of Small Vines, explains. He’s been farming the region since the late 1990s. Even more impressive is that even within the range of styles, a Green Valley signature still shines through. 

 

Our wines reviewed:

 

  • 2013 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast – 16.5 

Natural fruit-spiced warming aromatics and palate. All about the spice moving into a long finish. Fresh clean fruit, creamy Meyer lemon with hints of lime. Lots of presence, and freshness. Will age and develop nicely.

  • 2013 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – 17

Notes of mixed fresh berries, natural spice and pine forest through the finish with a mineral crunch. There is nice density and depth here. This Pinot shows off the sophisticated structure and flavour nuance of the vintage. Will develop nicely.

  • 2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir – 16.5

Chiseled, savoury rose leaf and cream and a saline crunch. Nice flavour concentration, structural tension, and fruit purity. Long mouth-watering finish.

  • 2012 MK Vineyard Pinot Noir – 16+

Savoury with a saline crunch. Notes of dried rose petal, and herbs smudged with spice. Lots of lifting energy, flavour concentration without heaviness, and clean focus. A little more breadth and depth to the palate than the other Small Vines Pinots. This wine wants the most time in bottle to develop.

  • 2012 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – 16+

Savoury red fruit with integrated spice, and a long mineral crunch. A bit muted but opens with air. Nice flavour concentration without heaviness. Mouth-watering acidity with persistent tannin, and an ultra-long finish.

 

To read the article in full, click here (subscription required)

Press Democrat Logo


Smaller, better in Sebastopol

BY PEG MELNIK- October 25, 2014

Small Vines Wines owner Paul Sloan works on special imported tractors from Europe designed to work in his narrowly planted vines. (JOHN BURGESS/ PD)

Small Vines Wines owner Paul Sloan works on special imported tractors from Europe designed to work in his narrowly planted vines. (JOHN BURGESS/ PD)

A mysterious apple tree taught Paul Sloan his first lesson in winemaking when he was 10 years old.

“For whatever reason, that tree with the smallest apples had the flavors that were the most intense,” he said.

Today Sloan and his wife, Kathryn, are the vintners of Small Vines, a Sebastopol brand that is based on the Burgundian model of winemaking and vineyard management. The philosophy embraces the practice of getting smaller yields from higher-density, European-styled spacing of vines.

The Sloans say they reap fewer pounds per vine in order to produce higher quality fruit. It’s a nod to the tasty apple tree Sloan grew up with on his family’s 250-acre ranch in Santa Rosa.

The couple sit beneath a grove of redwoods on their property in Sebastopol. It’s a 12.5-acre spread, and they’re in the midst of building a winery not far from their house, the historic Barlow homestead that dates back to 1897.

The Barlows were prominent apple and berry farmers. Today the family name is well known for its apple processing plant in Sebastopol, which has been transformed into a food and wine haven with wineries, retail shops, artisan studios and restaurants in the mix.

Kathryn, 45, said living in a historic house suits the family, most especially their two children: Dakota, 11, and Savannah, 8.

“Instead of a Queen Anne Victorian, it’s a farmhouse. . . . We’re humble farmers. I live in an old house. I wear my grandmother’s ring and we value traditional winemaking methods.”

Small Vines Wines owners Paul and Kathryn Sloan (JOHN BURGESS/ PD)

Small Vines Wines owners Paul and Kathryn Sloan (JOHN BURGESS/ PD)

It all began with a fascination of pinot noir.

Sloan, 42, was a 19-year old busboy at the Kenwood Restaurant, and then owner Susan Schacher had a daily ritual of reveling in a glass of pinot noir at closing time.

“I said to myself, ‘This pinot noir varietal has to be very special,’ ” he said.

In 1993, Sloan began working for John Ash restaurant in Santa Rosa, and within six months he became assistant wine steward there. “There was a wine library at John Ash, and I was really engaged,” Sloan said. “I devoured the books.”

While working at John Ash, Sloan was offered a taste of a $3,000-plus bottle of Burgundy — the Domaine de la Romanee Conti.

“A man poured me a generous glass and he said, ‘Enjoy this throughout the evening. It may just change your life.’ ”

The pricey Burgundy did just that. “Things just started churning inside me and I wanted to make wines of the highest level of purity and authenticity.”

After working for the late Warren Dutton of Sebastopol’s Dutton Ranch and studying viticulture at Santa Rosa Junior College, Sloan was at a crossroads. He was accepted to study at California Polytechnic State University, but he was eager to begin his brand.

Dutton, who mentored the couple, encouraged them to travel to France, since they wanted to follow the lead of the French. After several research trips, the Sloans founded Small Vines in 1998.

The husband and wife team seems to be the perfect yin-yang for the operation. Sloan covers farming and winemaking, while Kathryn tackles the business side of the operation. Meanwhile, both continue to be adventuresome, which isn’t surprising considering they began their courtship as rock climbers.

“Paul is one big adventurer,” said Kathryn. “Rock climbing, surfing, scuba diving. It’s hard to keep up with this farmer who has a lot of energy.”

Small Vines Wines owners Paul and Kathryn Sloan imported special tractors from Europe designed to work in the narrowly planted vines.

Small Vines Wines owners Paul and Kathryn Sloan imported special tractors from Europe designed to work in the narrowly planted vines.

The Press Democrat online article can be found here:

http://www.pressdemocrat.com/lifestyle/2988469-181/smaller-better-in-sebastopol